How Much Does The Average 27 Year Old Woman Make Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

Some dark and unusual words come to light as we look back at the history of hats and headdresses. Having recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (by Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the making of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be fun to explore the definitions and etymology of some of these ancient terms, most of which have all but disappeared from modern usage. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To be included below, the word must appear with a wavy red line in Microsoft Word’s “spell check” tool. So here goes:

ironmonger

[Fr. ferronnière, a frontlet; a coronet worn on the forehead: after Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait La Belle Ferronnière.]

(See quot. 1960.)

1840 THACKERAY in Fraser’s Mag. June 681/2 The sisters..with pink handkerchiefs..and brass irons..were voted very charming. 1908 HC SMITH Jewelery xx. 172 This head ornament is known as ferronière. 1960 H. HAYWARD Antique Coll. 117/1 Ferronière, chain worn as an ornament around the head with a jewel in the center.

Bongrace

note

[a. F. bonne-grace ‘th’ vppermost flap of the down-hanging taile of a French-hood (whence belike our Boon-grace)’ Cotgr.; f. bonne good, grace grace.]

1. A shade or curtain formerly worn over the front of women’s caps or caps to protect the skin from the sun; a parasol (See quot. 1617; consequently the latter may belong to 2.)

1530 PALSGR. 907 The grace of bone, le moufflet. 1533 Forgiver and P. in Hazl. Dodsl. I. 203 His bongracia that she keeps, with her French hood, When she always went out to burn the sun. 1595 R. WILSON Pedlar’s Proph. Bij, Fillets and Bungraces. 1604 DEKKER King’s Entert. 311 This good-grace hee made for the purpose of keeping his countenance warm. 1617 MORYSON Itin. III. IV. i. 170 A French shade of velvet to defend them from the Sunne, Which our gentle women of old borrowed Of the French, and called them Bonegraces, Now altogether out of us. 1636 DAVENANT Platon. Lovers Wks. (1673) 411 If I had been old enough to wear a Bongrace.

fig. 1609 HEYWOOD Brit. Troy VI. civil 137 A grove through which the lake runs, making its loops a grace of the Sun.

2. A wide-brimmed hat adapted to shade the face. bow or Obs.

1606 HOLLAND Sueton. 75 A broad-brimmed hat [marg. or Bond-grace = petasatus] over his head 1638 Dressed Songs (1849) 140 Straw hats will no longer be good, From the bright sun to hide your faces. 1719 URFEY’S PILLS (1872) IV. 107 His Grace of Weded Straw. 1815 SCOTT Guy M. iii, An old-fashioned bonnet called bon-grace.

3. ‘Trash defences; to remove obstacles from the sides or bow of a ship. Smyth Sailor’s Word-bk.

Huke

note exc. history

[a. OF. huque, heuque a kind of cape with a hood; in med.L. huca (13th c. in Du Cange), MDu. hûke, hôike, heuke, Du. huik, MLG. hoike, LG. hoike, heuke, heike, hokke, hök, E.Fris. heike, heik’, haike, hoike. Ulterior origin obscure. See also HAIK1.]

A kind of cloak or cloak with a hood; ‘an outer garment or mantle worn by women and then by men; it was also later applied to a tight-fitting dress worn by both sexes (Fairholt costume).

1415 to Nicholas Test. old I. 187, I want all my tottands [and] unpeeled huykes, to be distributed among the servants. 1418 EE Wills (1882) 37 Also parted a Hewk of grene and other melly. 1423 JAS. And Kingis Q. xlix, An huke sche had vpon hir tissew quhite. c1440 [see HAIK n.1]. a1529 SKELTON E. Rummyng 56 His huke of Lyncole grene. 1530 PALSGR. 231/1 Hewke a dress for a woman, surquayne, frock. Ibid. 233/1 Huke. 1616 BULLOKAR, Huke, a Dutch dress covering the head, face, and whole body. a1626 BACON New Atl. (1627) 24 A messenger, in a rich Huke. a1657 Lovelace Poems (1864) 210 Like ladies in Luyck’s land, He wears his sempiternal huyck. 1694 Dunton’s Ladies Dict. (N.), German virgins..put on a plain or straight garment, as in some places they call a huk. 1834 JR PLANCHÉ Brit. Costume 181. 1852 CM YONGE Cameos (1877) II. xxxvi. 370 When he did not wear armor, he wore a huque, or close-fitting dress.

b. Applied to Arabic. haïk: see HAIK2.

1630 J. TAYLOR (Water P.) Sept. (N.), The richest guy [of women] the doe wears a huicke, which is a stole of cloth or plating, and the upper part is gathered and sown in the form of an English potlid, with a tassel at the top. 1660 F. BROOKE tr. Trav. from Le Blanc. 269 ​​(Cairo) They [ladies] they all go as they were masked and covered with a Huke that hides their faces.

Hence huke v. trans., to cover with or as with a huke; veil, cloak

1613 H. KING Half cent. Wit (ed. 3) Ded. (N.), I will throw some light of well-intentioned feigned impurity over it, to dampen and mask it from public shame.

Lovelock

[f. LOVE n.1 + LOCK n.1]

A curl of a particular shape worn by courtiers in the time of Elizabeth and James I; later, any curl or feature of hair of a peculiar or striking character.

1592 LYLY Midas III. ii. 43 Will you wear your crown with a silk twist, or a shaggy shoulder? 1628 PRYNNE (title) The Vnloveliness of Love~lockes. 1840 MARRIED Poor Jack and, Lovelocks, as sailors call the curls they wear at the temples. 1894 A. GRIFFITHS Prison Secrets Ho. II. IV. ii. 63 Bandolina, which she used to make love locks to adorn her forehead and temples.

transfer 1886 MAXWELL GRAY Silence Dean Maitland I. i. 12 each [cart-] horse wore his mane with locks of love.

fountain

[Fr. fontange, f. Fontanges the territorial title of a mistress of Louis XIV.]

A tall headdress that was worn in the 17th and 18th centuries.

1689 SHADWELL Bury F. 11, What do you lack, ladies? Hoods, Fountains, Bundles. 1711 ADDISON Spect. No. 98 1 These Fountains in the olden days rose a El above the Cape. 1883 FG STEPHENS Catal. British Prints Mus. IV. 282 An ugly one-eyed old woman in a fountain.

Biggin

[a. F. béguin child’s cap. See BEGUINE, note.]

1. A boy’s cap.

1530 PALSGR. 198/1 Byggen for an attention chyldes, beguyne. 1532 MORE Confut. Tindale Wks. 577/2. 1639 MASSINGER Unnat. Combat IV. ii, Would you like me to turn my hat into a double piece and biggings? 1755 Connoisseur no. 80 (1774) III. 71 A warehouse of patches, caps..biggens..as would establish a lying hospital. 1819 SCOTT Ivanhoe xxviii, My brain has been turned … since the biggin was first bound to my head.

Cadogan

[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]

A way to knot the hair behind the head.

c1780 B’NESS OF OBERKIRCH Mem. (1852) II. ix, The Duchess of Bourbon had presented at the court of Montbéliard.[the fashion] of cadogans, until now worn only by knights.

Toupee

[a. F. toupet (tup ) tuft of hair, esp. over the forehead, deriv. (in form dim.) of OF. toup, top, tup, tuft of hair, foliage, etc.; ad. *LG. topp- = OHG. zopf top, tuft, summit; cf. OFris. top tuft, top, ONorse toppr top, tuft, lock of hair: see TOP n.1]

1. = MOLE.

1729 Art of Politicks 10 Do we believe that modern words are eternal? Toupet, and Tompion, Cousins, and Colmar Henceforth shall be called by a simple man A wig, a watch, a pair of stays, a fan. 1818 SCOTT Rob Roy vi, These fadeurs, which every gentleman with a toupee thinks himself bound to recite to an unfortunate girl. 1863 Cornish Mag. VII. 395 Wigs are dangerous unless frankly confessed. A toupee can easily escape detection.

b. transfer = TOUPEE b. note

1728 FIELDING Love to Sev. Masques Epil., From you then ye toupets expect defense. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa Wks. 1883 VII. 495 A pair of brocaded or laced tupettes..with the faces of half a rooster.

2. The neck of a horse or other animal (obs.); a head of thick hair (in quot., of a black).

1797 Sports Wizard. X. 295 The Tuf or Toupet, that part of the mane that is between the two ears. 1834 SOUTHEY Doctor iii. (1862) 5 Some of the inhabitants of the Congo make a secret fob in their woolen toupee.

3. adj., as toupet-coxcomb, -man, -wig; toupet-matmouse, the crested-matmouse.

1731 FIELD Mod. husband I. ix, I meet with nothing but a pack of toupee coxcombs, plastering their brains over their wigs. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa (1811) VII. wine 35 No mere toupet-man; but all manly. a1784 FLAG Arct. Zoo. (1785) II. 423 Titmous. Toupet..long head feathers, occasionally raised in a pointed crest, like a toupee. 1884 E. YATES Rec. & Exp. II. 238 A toupee-wig with care.

Hence, toupeted nonce-wd. (tu ptd, tu pe d) a., wearing a toupet.

1903 Smart Set IX. 53/2 Let’s have dinner with the tufted colonels.

Kevenhuller

note

[f. the name of the Austrian general, Andr. von Khevenhüller (1683-1744).]

a. attribute Applied to a tall cock given to a broad-brimmed hat worn in the mid-18th century. (see Fairholt Costume in Eng. (1860) 299); therefore also with a hat. b. absolved A rooster of this form; a hat armed in this way.

1746 Brit. Mag. 309 A laced hat pinched to what our Beaux have learned to call the Kevenhuller cock. 1750 COVENTRY Pompey Litt. II. iv. (1785) 58/1 Jockey boots, Khevenhullar hats and coach whips. 1753 Proc. Commission of common sense (Fairholt I. 377) Has not the Rooster of Dettingen been forgotten? noble kevenhuller despondent? 1762 London. Chron. XI. Chapter of Hats (Planchè), Hats are now worn, on an average, six inches and three-fifths wide at the brim, and are between Quaker and Kevenhuller.

Nivernois

Now history

[Dormeuse

[Fr.; fem. of dormeur sleeper, applied to articles convenient for sleeping, f. dormir to sleep.]

1. A hood or nightcap. note

1734 MRS. DELANY Life & Corr. (1861) I. 479, I have sent you..a patrona dormeuse. 1753 Let. Mrs. Dewes in Life & Corr. 260 He still hadn’t been able to get his dormouse.

2. A wagon adapted for sleeping.

1808 M. WILMOT Jrnl. August 16 (1934) III. 363 We set off on the Dormeuse 4 horses alongside and two before. 1825 I LIVE. S. DE REDCLIFFE in SL Poole Life (1888) I. 357 The two dark green carriages a Dormeuse and Britchka, which you have seen…at Windsor. 1841 LYTTON Nt. & Good morning. (1851) 216 A sleeper and four went up to the door of the inn to change horses.

3. A kind of couch or sofa.

1865 OUIDA Strathmore I. vi. 94 (Stanf.) He lay down on a couch before the fire.

Fred Belinsky

http://www.VillageHatShop.com

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