How Much Formula For A 4 1/2 Month Old Sick Pet Bird Care

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Sick Pet Bird Care

The article is aimed specifically at pet bird owners and is intended for use as a basic guide to the proper care of a sick or injured bird. Please always follow your vet’s advice and do not use this article as a means to avoid a hands-on vet exam. The key idea of ​​this article is to reduce stress on your recovering bird.

1. HEAT: Sick birds will sit with their feathers down to try to keep warm. The effort to conserve heat is an additional burden on the already weakened bird. Your veterinarian will determine if your bird requires hospitalization, but if home care is acceptable, I recommend setting up a tent to keep your bird warm. A bird’s natural temperature is much higher than ours, between 103F and 106F. So what often feels warm to us can be cold to them and this is especially true in sick birds. A simple way to provide heat is to cover 1/2 of the cage with a blanket and place a heat lamp on the other side as a heat source. We generally keep our sick birds at room temperatures that range from 85 to 95 F. This will vary greatly depending on the individual bird, so it is important to monitor your pet to ensure that you are providing the correct temperature and , of course, ask your vet for advice. An overheated bird will have very elegant feathers held tightly to its body, will hold its wings (shoulders) slightly away from its body, and may pant. If you see any of these signs, your bird is too warm and the ambient temperature should be reduced accordingly. For nighttime heat, I recommend using a red light. Sick birds, like sick birds, need rest and being kept under bright lights all night will be sleep deprived. In addition, during the day it is important to provide light so that they are encouraged to eat and can be monitored. Therefore, the entire cage should never be covered during the day. I do not recommend heating pads because it is very difficult to regulate the temperature. If a bird is not perched and sits directly on the pad, it can easily overheat or burn. And in my experience, birds raised on a heating pad quickly dehydrate and re-burn.

2. STRESS: Weakened birds must be kept in a stress-free situation. Often what seems normal to us can cause stress to our feathered friends. I suggest taking a close look at your bird’s environment with a critical eye to determine what might be stressors. Some of the common ones include, the bird in the middle of the house traffic with no chance to rest, cigarette smoke or aerosols around the birds, lack of darkness/sleep time at night, other pets, young children, too much visual stimuli (cage directly). in front of a window), competition from cagemates, too much handling, poor feeding and extreme temperatures (like birds kept in kitchens). I recommend that sick birds be left in their cage and slowly recover. Think of it as rest for your pet! Too much handling can stress the bird and will require the bird to use extra calories. If the bird is housed with other birds, it is usually best to keep the bird in a single cage. Some birds may be too stressed when separated from the colony, so you should seek your vet’s advice on how to bond your sick pet. However, in general, removing the bird from the group will reduce the stress of competition for nutrition and allow for easy medication and better monitoring. Of course, if an infectious disease is suspected, the pet should be moved to an isolation cage and at least a separate room, preferably a separate house without other birds.

3. NUTRITION: If your doctor made dietary recommendations, now is not the time to implement the change. Changes in diet type will cause tremendous stress on the bird and should be started when the bird has recovered. Always discuss how and when to make dietary changes with your pet’s doctor. I generally recommend offering all of the bird’s favorite foods during illness because many sick birds become anorexic and may starve to death. If your bird normally makes seeds, but is not currently eating, try placing millet sprays in the cage that most birds enjoy. The important thing to remember is that it took months or years for the bird to become malnourished and this cannot be corrected in a day or a week. Slow changes are essential for the sick bird. If you can’t get your pet to eat, you should be admitted to the hospital for tube feeding and additional care. Birds have a high metabolic rate and can starve quickly. Therefore, a pet bird that stops eating should always be assumed to be seriously ill, the potential for mortality is certainly present. Finally, if your bird is a hand-raised baby and is not eating due to illness, you can often revert to hand feeding (syringe feeding) during the convalescence period. A good hand raising formula should be used. The formula should be mixed with hot water as directed on the bag and offered to the bird. Do not force the bird to eat. Pet owners should never force feed their birds. A bird can easily aspirate (inhale food) and develop pneumonia and force feeding causes tremendous stress on your bird. Returning to hand feeding is only useful for those birds that willingly accept syringe feeding. Also, if hand-feeding, the formula should be properly warmed (follow the advice on the formula bag and your vet’s) to avoid food burns from too hot formula and stasis of the culture of formula fed at too cold a temperature.

4. MEDICATION: Ways: 1. Injectable, 2. In water or food, 3. Topical, 4. Oral I prefer not to medicate in the pet’s water or food. Medicines administered in this way often cause a change in taste and may cause the bird to reduce its food and water intake. Also, when medication is placed in food or water, it is very difficult to determine how much medication the pet has actually ingested. Thus, in my opinion the best routes are injectable and oral. Topical medication often does not work for the pet and will cause greasy feathers.

Before you bring your bird home, the doctor or technician should show you how to properly medicate your bird. Briefly, the patient should be kept upright and the syringe containing the medication should be gently inserted from the left side of the mouth and tilted to the right side. Most birds will try to bite the syringe allowing it to be easily inserted into the mouth cavity. Slowly push the plunger of the syringe to dispense the medicine into the lower part of the spout. If the pet has difficulty while medicating, stop for a few moments and try again. You should notify your veterinarian if you are unable to medicate your pet. The medication can be mixed with a flavoring agent (FlavorX), which will help reduce some resistance. Sometimes, depending on the reason for the treatment, your doctor may give you a long-acting injection instead of the oral medication, but this has limited uses and is therefore not available for all pets.

5. FOLLOW-UP EXAMINATIONS: As soon as an illness has been detected in your pet, it is taken to the veterinarian for a complete physical examination and diagnostic check-up including laboratory tests. Unfortunately, many people will see that their pet is getting better and don’t realize that a follow-up exam is needed. I always suggest rechecking the patient at varying intervals depending on the state of weakness. The review exam allows your doctor to assess the patient’s response to treatment and the owner’s compliance with instructions. Many times when treating an exotic pet the treatment must be modified slightly to ensure the best response. These checks are also used as a way to reinforce the changes needed to keep the bird healthy. In addition, laboratory values ​​can be rechecked to ensure that the patient is truly recovering and not just feeling well enough again to resume concealing any weakness. I cannot stress enough the importance of this monitoring, it is extremely important to the health of your bird.

Most importantly, follow your vet’s advice and ask questions to make sure you fully understand what is needed from you to get your pet back.

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