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How to Grow Roses
Roses prefer a heavy clay soil and above average fertility. The best time to plant Roses is November bareroot as long as the ground is not frozen. You can plant roses in pots all year round. When planting your rose, it is essential to double dig over your border or island bed to open up the soil structure. When planting your rose, remember to keep the grafted junction above ground level at least an inch (2.5 cm) you can tell this is the thickest part of the stem. If you bury this part, it will only send the suckers from the rootstock, which weakens your rose. When buying your rose choose one that has at least three good stems, all of which are facing the center of the plant. It should be like a wine glass in shape, make sure there is no dead wood or sick spots on the stems. The stems should be good even red or green depending on the time of year of purchase. Food see notes below.
November is the ideal time to prune your roses, remove them to 6 inches in height if you live in a frost-free area, otherwise cut the shoots in half to stop wind-rock. Remember that the roses still grow throughout the winter, this is the time when they come to next year’s production of buds, you will notice small red buds that begin to form on the main stems. Mulch your roses now leaving a space about 3 inches away from the main stem with farmyard manure or well-rotted garden compost.
(Word of warning about farming – Make sure you get real yard manure from cows that eat hay not silage. Cows fed silage, the manure produced is rich in toxic effluent, which will burn and kill plants. )
Roses are very hungry plants, so start feeding early from mid-February with a good Rose fertilizer like “TopRose” apply 4oz per plant spread the fertilizer 3-4 inches away from the main stem of Rose and fork in slightly This will allow the fertilizer to be washed into the base of the Rose in time for when the plants need feeding from April, it takes time for the fertilizer to travel in the ground, especially if it is a heavy soil that likes to Roses. Then start liquid feeding the Roses when you see the first leaf buds opening every week until the flower stage with a good high Potash fertilizer like “Tomato Fertilizer” give each plant a gallon (4 .55 liters) of mixed liquid feed.
Then in June give another topdressing of TopRose fertilizer.
If you follow these instructions, you will have very healthy plants with masses of flowers, healthy plants will produce more flowers than poor plants that lack nutrition. A good sign of poor nutrition in Roses is small black dots on the leaves, like pepper dust sprinkled on the leaves. It should not be confused by Black Spot which is much larger and is a fungal problem.
Black Spot is common on roses in areas of high rainfall and where the Roses have not been pruned properly. When pruning always keep the center of the rose clear, do not let two branches cross over each other. Always let the new shoots grow to replace the older rosewood so you can prune the older wood and let the new wood take over. Aim to have three main stems and always form your branches on the horizontal for climbers, ramblers and scramblers, this will allow you to keep the rose more open and favor better flowering. When the roses are in full leaf, you should also be able to see through the plant, because air can move around the plant, thus helping to prevent the spores from germinating, as they like always moist conditions.
Rust and mold are again all signs of poor nutrition and the wrong plants.
Aphids and other leaf-eating insects can do a lot of damage, especially to new rosebuds using an organic soap solution works best. The soap makes it difficult for insects to climb on the stems, but you have to do this when the weather is dry and if it rains it must be repeated. Or you can use a systemic insecticide and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Systemic means that it will move inside the plants, so no matter where the insect eats, it will receive the poison.
To encourage a second flow of flowers, it is essential that the deaf head flowers that are more cut the stem of the flower back to the first set of leaves at an angle to allow water to flow from the open cut and prevent the death of the trunk, try. top cut so that the water flows from the center of the plant. After deadheading, it is a good idea to give the foliage a light mist of foliar food at half strength to help the plant to promote new buds. If you leave the old dead flowers on it, it can lead to disease and take a lot of strength from the plants.
Roses especially Hybrid T’s are ideal for cutting. When you choose your rose to cut, wait until you see color in the rose flower, then cut your stem as long as possible. Cut off your spines and lower leaves. Place your roses in the vase you are going to use to see them one at a time while placing the rose in the water, give it 5 seconds in the water, then cut an inch (2.5 cm) off the bottom of the stem or for the required height, but cut the stem in the water, this gets rid of any air bubbles that could be trapped inside the rose stem stops the flow of water in the stem. To your water add a spoonful of sugar or use cheap lemonade instead of water and remove it in an “Aspirin”, yes the headache pill, this helps to keep the liquid clear and the disease. Display your roses in a room where the temperature does not fluctuate too much as a room that is too high or too cold will shock the flowers and may prevent the flowers from opening. Ideally then give as much daylight as possible near a window. If you follow these tips, your Roses will last a week longer than just popping rose cut in a vase of water from your flower. The roses grown at home are the best to cut the freshest they last longer in a vase.
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